1991 NSX -- SOLD -- $19,900
Sorry, all you low-ballers out there.  If you really wanted a nice car at a low price, you shouldn't have tried to grind another $2K out of me and jumped on this when you had the chance.



1991 NSX for Sale -- $19,900 1991 NSX for Sale -- $19,900

Click here for more pictures.


 

Basic Information

YEAR & MODEL  1991 Acura NSX 
VIN  JH4NA1152MT002287 
CURRENT MILEAGE 115,094 
COLOR (EXT/INT)  Black/Black-Tan 
TRANSMISSION  5 speed manual
LOCATION OF VEHICLE   Chandler, Arizona 
NUMBER OF OWNERS 
CLEAN TITLE  Yes 
CLEAN CARFAX  Yes 
HISTORY OF ACCIDENTS  None 

 

Additional Information

HISTORY OF PAINT/BODYWORK
Clearance lights shaved from front and rear fenders.
Small tear in chin spoiler (parking damage) repaired/front bumper cover repainted.


MAINTENANCE HISTORY
After purchasing this car, I took it to an Acura certified mechanic who dropped the engine/trans-axle, replaced the fuel tank, completely rebuilt the gearbox, replaced the stock clutch with an RPS stage 2, installed Comp-Tech headers, adjusted the valves, did a leak-down test (all cylinders hold pressure well), replaced the timing belt and water pump, rebuilt the CV joints, replaced all external belts and hoses and  several gaskets and seals that had slight leaks, and other mechanical work (details avail on request).  All of these repairs/replacements have approximately 2-3k miles on them.  I have no maintenance documentation from previous owners.  However, most maintenance over the years was done at Acura dealers.  I am told that Acura of Tempe has some maintenance history for the car.  You should be able to access those records by calling them with the VIN.

The gearbox is in the snap-ring range, but I was told by the previous owner that the snap-ring was replaced during the recall, shortly after it was purchased.  This fact was verified by my mechanic during the rebuild.


CURRENT CONDITION OF WEARABLES INCL. TIRES, BRAKES, BELTS, HOSES, SUSPENSION COMPONENTS AND FLUIDS
All are in either "new" or "nearly new" condition, except the tires, which are about halfway through their "life."


MODIFICATIONS

ENGINE:
Comptech Stainless Steel Headers
CompTech Exhaust
RPS Stage 2 Clutch


SUSPENSION:
Tien-Flex Coilover Custom Suspension
EDFC Electronic adjustment controller in console 1-16 Stiffness w/3 presets
Professionally Cambered & Lowered


BODY:
VDI Vertical “Lamborghini Style” Door Conversion
Shaved fender/quarter panel side lights

TRACTION:
FOOSE Chrome Deep Dish “Speedster” 3 pc Wheels
18”x9” Front / 19”x11.5” Rear
Falken 451 Directional Tires 235ZR18 / 295ZR19. (New Jan, ‘07)

INTERIOR:
Custom Black/Tan Leather Seats and Door Panels
Limo tint visor line

SOUND SYSTEM:
Alpine IVA-W200
Rockford Fosgate 501X Amplifier (1500w)

GPS:
Alpine NVE-872A


The car has been driven VERY little in the two-and-a-half years since I bought it (less than 4,000 miles) and has been stored in a completely enclosed garage when not driven.  For the last 18 months I have only taken the car out to drive it around the block, about once per month...just to make sure everything is OK.

I bought the car as a restoration project and there are still some things that remain to be done.
The following list describes those issues:
- Gas pressure door lifters (lambo doors) do not hold doors up in cold weather
- Passenger-side visor is split open
- Glovebox door needs to be reinstalled (I have the part)
- Interior firewall covers need to be reinstalled
- Rear piece of center console needs to be installed (I have aftermarket carbon fiber unit, not original)
- Engine cover is missing
- Spare tire is missing (I have the rack which needs to be installed)
- Weather strip on both doors need to be replaced
- Carpet and leather (interior) needs to be cleaned
- Shifter boot does not mate well with aftermarket Momo shift knob.

(For those of you returning to this page and noticing that this list is shorter...I got the headlight actuator fixed, the sound/navigation system installed, and the rear center taillight replaced.)

The cost to fix all of the above (and make this car nearly perfect) is a few hours of your time and about $1,000.
(Click here for a summary of those costs.)


If you live in an area that requires catalytic converters (e.g. Califonia; Maricopa County, Arizona; etc.) you will need to purchase and install them.

In addition, there are a couple small cosmetic issues that I want to mention:
- 4 small circular marks in paint (2 on hood).
- There is a spot on an engine compartment sheet-metal seam that appears to have been damaged and then repaired.

If you any doubts about what I have said here, I suggest you find a mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection.  I'm proud of the work that has been done to this car (mechanically) and will cooperate in helping you verify its condition.

For those "doing the math": Yes, I am taking one HELLUVA loss on the car. I have well over $44,000 invested.  But I no longer have an interest in completing the restoration or keeping the car.  Suffice to say that my loss is your gain should you be in the market to buy an NSX.
 


Purchase Terms/Procedures

It is my experience that adhering to the following, reduces risk to both buyer and seller in an automobile purchase transaction:

1) The buyer should be knowledgeable about the type of car being considered for purchase.
2) The buyer should carefully read and consider all available information the seller has provided.
3) The buyer should be ready, willing, and able to complete a purchase transaction (within a reasonable price range).
4) The buyer should obtain a Pre-Purchase Inspection from a reputable/competent mechanic prior to making a purchase.
5) The buyer should personally test drive a car before purchasing it.

Below, are the details of my (seller's) willingness and expectations regarding selling this car.

Price
The offering price listed at the top of this page, is an offer to sell this car at that price.  If you would like to offer to purchase the car for a price that is different than my offering price, I encourage you to make what you believe to be a fair offer.  I will consider all offers, but I reserve the right to decline any offer.

Deposit
Upon receipt of verified funds in the amount of $500 US, I will "hold" the car for you for a period of fourteen (14) calendar days, while you arrange for a pre-purchase inspection (PPI), put together financing, etc.  This deposit will be refunded to you ONLY if the PPI reveals anything I have not disclosed here.  The deposit will NOT be refunded for any other reason (e.g. your financing falls through, etc.).  If, after a period of fourteen (14) calendar days, you have not completed arrangements for purchasing the car you will have two options:

1)  Forfeit your original $500 US deposit.  Your "hold" will automatically expire if you fail to make any other arrangements with me and I will no longer consider the car to be "purchase pending," and I will begin to entertain offers from other potential buyers.  If at some future date you wish to place another "hold" on the car, you may do so by providing me with a new $500 US deposit and beginning the process again.

2)  Renew your "hold" on the car, for an additional fourteen (14) calendar days, by giving me an additional deposit of $1,000 US (your total deposit at this point will be $1,500 US).  If, after giving me an additional deposit, you are unable to complete arrangements to purchase the car within this second, fourteen (14) calendar day period, you may elect to forfeit your entire deposit ($1,500 US) or renew your hold again, as described here, for another fourteen days.  If you continue to renew your "hold" by placing an additional $1,000 US on deposit every fourteen (14) calendar days, then when you reach a total deposit equal to 100% of my offering price, I will transfer title of the car to you. If at anytime prior to reaching a total deposit of 100% of my offering price, you allow your "hold" to expire (by not providing the required additional "renewal deposit" of $1,000 prior to the fourteen (14) day expiration), you will forfeit your entire deposit.

Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI)
After receipt of a deposit, as described above, I will cooperate to the best of my ability, with your efforts to obtain a PPI from a competent inspector (see "Competent Inspector:", below).  This means I will take the car to the place of inspection on your behalf, at the agreed upon date and time.  You must make arrangements to pay for the inspection with the inspector of your choice.  Your chosen inspector (approved by me) must commit to a date and time when I can retrieve the car after it has been inspected.  Under no circumstances will I approve an inspection with an inspector who requests more than 24 hours to make the inspection.

Competent Inspector:  You must choose an inspector who I can verify as competent to do the inspection.  I reserve the right to refuse to allow the car to be inspected by certain inspectors (at my sole discretion) and to refuse any inspection that I perceive puts the car at risk or to be detrimental to my interests in the car. 

Test Drive
You may test drive the car after:

1)  We agree on a price at which (pending a test drive), you are ready, willing, and able to purchase the car,
2)  You provide proof of being a licensed driver (I will make a copy of your driver's license), and
3)  You have provided me with a deposit of verified funds in the amount of $500 US.

During the test drive, I will hold your deposit and accompany you.  Unless we agree otherwise, in advance, test drives may not last more than ten (10) minutes, nor take us beyond a radius of five (5) miles from the point of origin (where the test drive begins).  During the test drive, you are responsible for the car.  If it is damaged, in any way, while you are in control as the driver, whether due to your negligence or not, YOU are responsible.  At a minimum, you will forfeit your deposit, and I will hold you responsible for the cost to repair the damage.  If the cost to repair the damage is greater than the purchase price we agreed upon prior to the test drive, you may, at your discretion, simply complete the purchase transaction. If at any time during the test drive, I am uncomfortable with your stewardship of the car, I reserve the right (at my sole discretion) to end the test drive.

During the test drive you MUST obey all traffic laws and generally conduct yourself in accordance with the standards of "defensive driving."  You may not exceed the posted speed limit or operate the the vehicle in a reckless manner ("Let's see what this baby can do!").  Failure to adhere to this rule will result in the termination of your test drive and the forfeiture of your deposit.  I probably won't even give you a ride back to your car.

At the end of your test drive you will have three options (unless it has been "terminated" as described above):

1)  Complete the purchase transaction.
2)  Postpone the decision while you consider whether or not to complete the purchase.
3)  Refuse to complete the purchase transaction.

If, at the end of your test drive, you wish to complete the purchase transaction (1), we will follow the procedures outlined below in Transfer of Title.  If you would like more time to think about it (2), I will continue to hold your deposit until you decide, up to a maximum of two weeks as described above in the Deposit section (above).  If you notify me of your decision not to purchase the car within 48 hours of the test drive, I will refund your deposit in full.  After 48 hours I will refund a prorated portion of your deposit based on $392 the third day and $36 less each day until the initial $500 deposit is exhausted. 

Transfer of Title
Upon receipt of the full agreed upon purchase price, in "verified funds", I will sign the title over to you and hand you the keys.

"Verified funds" means that whatever form of payment you choose to provide (cash, personal check, cashier's check, "certified" check, money order, etc.) will be verified by my bank prior to me giving you the title.  For example, if you give me cash, we will take it to my bank and they will verify that it is true US currency (not counterfeit) before I give you the title; likewise, if you want to pay with a check or money order in any form, I will not sign over title until your instrument has been converted to cash by my bank.

Shipping
The cost of shipping the car (and any associated preparation) is entirely your responsibility.  I will cooperate, to the best of my ability, with your shipper.  I will not release possession of the car, nor transfer title, until the conditions set forth above in Transfer of Title, are met.

General
Of course, I may consider alternatives to these terms on a case-by-case basis, but any such agreements will be reduced to writing and signed (and notarized) by both parties (you - buyer, and me - seller).  In the absence of any other written agreement, all the terms described above will be considered binding on both parties and adjudicated by a court of competent jurisdiction in Coconino County, Arizona, USA.